What Does It Mean When Chefs Say 86 in the Kitchen

Have you ever been curled up on the couch, watching one of those intense cooking competition shows? The kitchen is a whirlwind of steam and sizzling pans. The head chef, with a towel slung over their shoulder, inspects a plate and then bellows, “That’s it! 86 the salmon!” The servers scramble, the other chefs nod grimly, and you’re left on your couch thinking… what on earth does that even mean?

Or maybe you’ve lived a quieter, but no less dramatic, version of this moment in your own kitchen. You’re halfway through making your famous lasagna, the ricotta is mixed, the sauce is simmering beautifully, and you reach into the pantry for the noodles only to find an empty box. In that moment of panic, you’ve just had to, in your own way, “86 the lasagna.”

That little number, 86, is one of the most common and useful pieces of kitchen slang. It might sound like mysterious code, but once you understand it, you’ll not only feel a little more connected to the world of professional cooking, you’ll also have a new way to think about those inevitable kitchen hiccups. So, let’s pull back the curtain on this classic culinary term.

So What Exactly Does ‘86’ Mean?

At its heart, the term ‘86’ is a quick and clear signal for “we are out of this” or “get rid of it.” It’s a verbal red light that stops everything associated with a particular item. In the fast-paced, high-pressure environment of a restaurant, clear communication is everything, and ‘86’ is about as clear as it gets.

The term generally has two main uses:

1. For a Menu Item: This is the most common usage you’ll encounter. When the kitchen runs out of a key ingredient for a dish, they “86” that dish. If the last filet of halibut has been cooked and sent out, the chef will let the service staff know to “86 the halibut.” This prevents servers from taking orders for something the kitchen can no longer produce, which in turn prevents disappointed customers. It’s a crucial tool for managing inventory and expectations in real-time.

2. For a Person: This one is a bit more ‘inside baseball’ and thankfully less common in our home kitchens. In restaurant and bar lingo, to ‘86’ a customer means to refuse them service and ask them to leave. We won’t dwell on this one, but it’s part of the term’s full story!

For us home cooks, it’s the first meaning that really matters. It’s the official shorthand for that sinking feeling when you realize a key ingredient is missing in action.

Where Did This Mysterious Kitchen Code Come From?

One of the most charming things about kitchen slang is that its origins are often a little murky, like a good, long-simmered stock. The true story of ‘86’ is lost to time, but there are a few wonderful, competing theories that chefs and food historians love to debate. Each one gives you a little snapshot of a different time and place in culinary history.

Theory 1: The Speakeasy Scramble Picture this: It’s the 1920s in New York City during Prohibition. You’re in a secret, smoky bar called Chumley’s. The only way in was through a hidden door, and the place was a favorite haunt for writers and artists. The bar had two entrances, but its official address was 86 Bedford Street. When the police were on their way to raid the establishment, the bartender would shout “86!” This was the code for everyone to scram, to get out the 86 Bedford Street exit immediately. It was a literal instruction: “Eighty-six it out of here!”

Theory 2: The Popular Steak Let’s travel back even further, to the Gilded Age at Delmonico’s, one of America’s first fine dining restaurants, also in New York. The story goes that the most popular item on their extensive menu was item number 86: a beautiful chuck steak. It was so popular that it would reliably sell out almost every single night. When the last order went out, the kitchen would call out to the servers, “86 is gone!” Over time, this specific call for item number 86 simply became the general term for any sold-out dish.

Theory 3: Simple Rhyming Slang This origin is a bit less romantic but perhaps the most practical. In Cockney rhyming slang, you substitute a word with a phrase that rhymes with it. For example, “apples and pears” means “stairs.” Following that logic, ‘86’ is believed to be rhyming slang for “nix,” which means to cancel or get rid of something. When a chef yells, “Nix the salmon!” it means the same thing. “Eighty-six” is just a catchier, faster way to say it in a loud kitchen.

Whichever story you prefer, they all point to the same thing: a need for fast, clear code in a high-stakes environment.

Bringing ‘86’ into Your Own Kitchen (No Shouting Required)

Okay, so this is all fascinating history, but how does it help you when you’re standing in your kitchen with an empty jar of oregano? This is where we can borrow the professional mindset without the stress. When you realize you have to ‘86’ an ingredient, you’re at a crossroads. You can panic, or you can pivot.

(I vote for pivoting. It’s much more fun.)

Think of it as an unexpected creative challenge. Here’s a little game plan for the next time you have an ‘86’ moment:

• Step 1: Don’t Panic. Seriously. The kitchen is more forgiving than you think. Take a deep breath. Unless you’ve just run out of flour for a cake that’s already half-mixed, there is almost always a solution.

• Step 2: Assess the Ingredient’s Role. Ask yourself: how important was this ingredient? Was it the star of the show, or a background singer? If you’re making a lemon tart and you’re out of lemons, that’s a big problem. But if you’re making a stew and you’re out of thyme, you have options. Understanding the ingredient’s purpose (Is it for acidity? Freshness? Earthiness? Spice?) is the key to finding a good substitute.

• Step 3: Go on a Pantry Adventure. This is your chance to get creative. If you’ve 86’d an herb, see what else you have. No oregano for your pasta sauce? Try some basil, or maybe a pinch of fennel seed for a different kind of warmth. Out of an acid like lemon juice? A small splash of vinegar (white wine, apple cider) can often do the trick. No buttermilk for your pancakes? You can make a substitute with regular milk and a teaspoon of lemon juice or vinegar. (Let it sit for 5 minutes; it will curdle slightly, and that’s exactly what you want!).

• Step 4: Embrace the New Dish. You didn’t fail at making the original recipe. You succeeded at inventing a new one! Your “No-Thyme Beef Stew” or “Surprise Ingredient Cookies” might become a new family favorite. Every time you successfully pivot, you build a little more kitchen confidence. You start to learn the ‘why’ behind recipes, not just the ‘how’.

Try This Tonight Your ‘86’ Practice Run

Confidence comes from practice, so let’s do a low-stakes drill. Tonight, when you’re making dinner, I want you to intentionally ‘86’ one small, non-critical ingredient. Just pretend you don’t have it.

Making a simple green salad with vinaigrette? ‘86’ the Dijon mustard. What happens to your dressing? You’ll have to whisk a little harder to get it to emulsify, but you’ll still have a delicious, fresh dressing. Maybe you’ll add a tiny bit of honey or a crushed garlic clove to compensate.

Roasting some vegetables? ‘86’ the black pepper. What could you use instead? A sprinkle of smoked paprika for color and warmth? A dash of red pepper flakes for heat? Or maybe you just let the flavor of the caramelized vegetables and salt shine on their own.

This isn’t about making things difficult; it’s about proving to yourself that you are in control. You are the chef of your kitchen, and you have the power to adapt and overcome. The next time you realize an ingredient is missing for real, it won’t feel like a catastrophe. It will just be a simple, calm, “Alright, we’re 86-ing the cumin. What’s next?”